Surfing is selfish !! And simply because it involves a close quarter dialogue between a moving body of water (yup, that's the wave) and yourself. The relationship can't be explained unless you've tried it and you'll often find yourself sounding like a fool trying to explain it to non surfers.
BUT, surfing is about sharing too. Sharing a wave sometimes, sharing those moments with friends or strangers and walking back home with the feeling you've helped someone feel a little bit better about the world.
And when you've shared enough, someone will share with you in return. They'll share their waves, they'll share their stoke and friendship. They'll share their good mood and hoot for you when you've pull a nice move...
... thanks Mick ;)
"Shared moments" - 20 x 16 oil on canvas - €380
Très belle vague... beau partage avec cette toile chaleureuse... Bises
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